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<\/p>\nBecky Cooper
\nVilla Lena, 2025, Session 1
\nApril 2025<\/p>\n
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I had arrived a litle early to Toiano, the ghost town that\u2019s about a 20-minute walk from Villa Lena<\/i> <\/i>and<\/i> <\/i>is<\/i> <\/i>book-ended<\/i> <\/i>by<\/i> <\/i>a<\/i> <\/i>small<\/i> <\/i>cemetery<\/i> <\/i>and<\/i> <\/i>a<\/i> <\/i>church<\/i> <\/i>on<\/i> <\/i>one<\/i> <\/i>end,<\/i> <\/i>and<\/i> <\/i>steep,<\/i> <\/i>sandstone<\/i> <\/i>cliffs on the other. The big white and grey dogs that serve as the village\u2019s guards had been growling the whole time. <\/i><\/p>\n
Rosita<\/i> <\/i>surprised<\/i> <\/i>me<\/i> <\/i>at<\/i> <\/i>the<\/i> <\/i>top<\/i> <\/i>of<\/i> <\/i>the<\/i> <\/i>village<\/i> <\/i>\u2014the<\/i> <\/i>side<\/i> <\/i>that<\/i> <\/i>backed<\/i> <\/i>into<\/i> <\/i>the<\/i> <\/i>woods<\/i> <\/i>\u2014<\/i> <\/i>and waved at me to join her. Those growling dogs weren\u2019t hers after all. <\/i><\/p>\n
I<\/i> <\/i>walked along the short street that makes up the entirety of the town that\u2019s been inhabited since<\/i> <\/i>medieval<\/i> <\/i>times<\/i> <\/i>and<\/i> <\/i>has<\/i> <\/i>now<\/i> <\/i>mostly<\/i> <\/i>given<\/i> <\/i>itself<\/i> <\/i>back<\/i> <\/i>to<\/i> <\/i>nature.<\/i> <\/i>Where<\/i> <\/i>there<\/i> <\/i>had<\/i> <\/i>been<\/i> <\/i>living rooms,<\/i> <\/i>there<\/i> <\/i>was<\/i> <\/i>now<\/i> <\/i>just<\/i> <\/i>vegetation.<\/i> <\/i>A<\/i> <\/i>stray<\/i> <\/i>cat<\/i> <\/i>ate<\/i> <\/i>meekly<\/i> <\/i>out<\/i> <\/i>of<\/i> <\/i>a<\/i> <\/i>baking<\/i> <\/i>tray.<\/i> <\/i>A<\/i> <\/i>fig<\/i> <\/i>tree<\/i> <\/i>grew out of a broken second-story window.<\/i><\/p>\n
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Three<\/i> <\/i>other,<\/i> <\/i>smaller,<\/i> <\/i>auburn<\/i> <\/i>dogs<\/i> <\/i>encircled<\/i> <\/i>her.<\/i> <\/i>They\u2019d<\/i> <\/i>been<\/i> <\/i>abandoned<\/i> <\/i>by<\/i> <\/i>their<\/i> <\/i>owners<\/i> <\/i>who had left the village, and Rosita\u2019s been looking after them for years. \u201cBe nice,\u201d she scolded them, as they tried to nip at my legs.<\/i><\/p>\n
Rosita<\/i> <\/i>it<\/i> <\/i>is<\/i> <\/i>said,<\/i> <\/i>is<\/i> <\/i>the<\/i> <\/i>last<\/i> <\/i>resident<\/i> <\/i>of<\/i> <\/i>Toiano.<\/i> <\/i>There<\/i> <\/i>are<\/i> <\/i>other<\/i> <\/i>owners<\/i> <\/i>(four<\/i> <\/i>besides<\/i> <\/i>her),<\/i> <\/i>but she and her husband are the last full-time residents. She had recently started coming to Villa Lena, because she is an art restorer, and had been hired to restore the frescoes in the villa and elsewhere<\/i> <\/i>on<\/i> <\/i>the<\/i> <\/i>property.<\/i> <\/i>(Despite<\/i> <\/i>a<\/i> <\/i>lifetime<\/i> <\/i>of<\/i> <\/i>living<\/i> <\/i>in<\/i> <\/i>the<\/i> <\/i>area,<\/i> <\/i>she<\/i> <\/i>had<\/i> <\/i>only<\/i> <\/i>been<\/i> <\/i>inside<\/i> <\/i>the villa twice at the time of our conversation.)<\/i><\/p>\n
After<\/i> <\/i>our<\/i> <\/i>talk,<\/i> <\/i>I<\/i> <\/i>think<\/i> <\/i>about<\/i> <\/i>how<\/i> <\/i>similar<\/i> <\/i>our<\/i> <\/i>work<\/i> <\/i>is:<\/i> <\/i>we<\/i> <\/i>both<\/i> <\/i>stubbornly<\/i> <\/i>refuse<\/i> <\/i>the<\/i> <\/i>passage<\/i> <\/i>of time. We spend our days researching what had been there before, in order to fight decay and erasure.<\/i> <\/i>Our<\/i> <\/i>work<\/i> <\/i>is<\/i> <\/i>to<\/i> <\/i>resurrect<\/i> <\/i>the<\/i> <\/i>dead,<\/i> <\/i>and<\/i> <\/i>to<\/i> <\/i>bring<\/i> <\/i>forward<\/i> <\/i>the<\/i> <\/i>invisible.<\/i> <\/i>But<\/i> <\/i>we\u2019re<\/i> <\/i>both<\/i> <\/i>also aware that time always wins.<\/i><\/p>\n
She invited me into her house. We entered a dark hallway behind a heavy door and climbed the stairs to her living room and kitchen, with ancient exposed beams. She exited brie\ufb02y to lock her dog upstairs because she could tell I\u2019d be scared otherwise. I took the time to look around her house, which was very orderly: photos of her wedding. Her fridge, bathed in light from the open windows, was decorated with magnets of cities she had visited, as well as the Albanian \ufb02ag, for her husband. She had kitschy tiles on the backsplash behind her stove of sayings in English and Italian:<\/i> <\/i>\u201cAdesso<\/i> <\/i>o<\/i> <\/i>mai<\/i> <\/i>pi\u00f9<\/i> <\/i>\/<\/i> <\/i>It\u2019s<\/i> <\/i>now<\/i> <\/i>or<\/i> <\/i>never.\u201d<\/i> <\/i>\u201cMeglio<\/i> <\/i>tardi<\/i> <\/i>che<\/i> <\/i>mai<\/i> <\/i>\/<\/i> <\/i>It\u2019s<\/i> <\/i>better<\/i> <\/i>late<\/i> <\/i>than<\/i> <\/i>never.\u201d<\/i><\/p>\n
We sat at her kitchen table, and I sipped coffee as she patiently answered my questions, her voice<\/i> <\/i>low<\/i> <\/i>and<\/i> <\/i>scratchy<\/i> <\/i>from<\/i> <\/i>decades<\/i> <\/i>of<\/i> <\/i>cigare+e<\/i> <\/i>smoke.<\/i> <\/i>Her<\/i> <\/i>eyes<\/i> <\/i>were<\/i> <\/i>heavily<\/i> <\/i>lined<\/i> <\/i>in<\/i> <\/i>black,<\/i> <\/i>and she smiled easily. We spoke in Italian, mine halting and imperfect, and this is a translated, abridged version of our conversation.<\/i><\/p>\n
<\/i>Becky:<\/strong> Hi, I\u2019m Becky. I\u2019m a journalist and a writer, and I\u2019m very interested in memory. Since coming to Villa Lena, I\u2019ve become very interested in Toiano, particularly in what it is like to be the last resident of a ghost town. Thank you for taking the time to speak with me. Were you born in Toiano?<\/p>\n Rosita<\/strong>: No, I was born in Pontedera and grew up in Palaia. This house belonged to my great- grandmother. Then it was my grandmother\u2019s and my dad\u2019s, too, after he had separated from my mom. I\u2019ve been here since 2000, but I was studying in Florence, then, so I\u2019d be in Florence for three or four days and here only on the weekends. I\u2019ve lived here full-time since 2005 — more or less since I graduated. But I would always come here as a child.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> I imagine it\u2019s changed a lot?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> Yes, unfortunately. 70% of the town is owned by someone in Como. If we five private individuals were not here you would not even come here. We cut the grass. We do the street cleaning. The municipality never comes.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> Did you meet your husband in this area?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> No I met him in Palaia. He\u2019s Albanian, but he was doing some work in Palaia. We\u2019ve been married for ten years now. He\u2019s a truck driver here in Tuscany for the COOP warehouses. Before that he was a bricklayer.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> How long has your family been here?<\/p>\n Rosita: My great-grandfather was a gamekeeper. He was a guardian \u2014 like a forest ranger. My great-grandmother was a housewife. I think she was born in 1909, more or less, and my grandmother \u2014 her daughter \u2014 in \u201933.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> When you walk on the street of Toiano, what do you feel?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> The most beautiful thing about Toiano is definitely nature. The panorama. I\u2019m always taking photos, photos, photos, as though I were a tourist, even though I see it every day. The landscape is always changing: from the summer to the snow it always changes. And then I also have memories \u2014 so many memories \u2014 from childhood. We came to mass here for Christmas and for Easter with my parents.<\/p>\n I\u2019m not sure if you know the story, but the church bell of Toiano was stolen a very long time ago and it is in Florence. It\u2019s called the Toianella. It now rings at the Palazzo Vecchio.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> When did the church close?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> The last time I was in the church I think I was maybe 10 or 12 years old? So, 1985 or so. They closed it because people stole everything from the church. They broke the doors, stole the reliefs from the walls. And also because there\u2019s a danger that something might collapse.<\/p>\n Becky<\/strong>: What was Toiano in general like when you were young?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> When there were more people? It was always quiet like now. But when my grandmother was young, the village was inhabited. There were lots of shops. There was a club where they danced to music. There was an oil mill and a barber.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> I met tourists who told me that 50 years ago, they ate at a restaurant on August 15th at a table that stretched the entire length of the street.<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> Yes, it was right next door. They did that. Becky: Every year?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> Yes.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> When did the restaurant close?<\/p>\n Rosita<\/strong>: I think I was last about ten-years-old in the restaurant too, so about 30 years ago\u2026 It is a shame my grandmother isn\u2019t here. She knew everyone. Their names, everyone who lived here, all the stories. She died a year ago.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> I\u2019m so sorry. How old was she? Rosita: 85.<\/p>\n She also told me stories of the second World War, which arrived here and which she lived through. The Germans threatened the people of the town. There was the war, there were shelters where people hid. There was a German base nearby. There was a wall where the Germans lined people up one day, and shot them all. Then the Americans arrived and liberated the town \u2014 the same story as everywhere else. She always told me these stories when I was little.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> Did your grandmother tell you stories of how it felt in the village to see everyone disappearing?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> Well my grandmother moved, too. She went to Palaia. But my great-grandmother stayed here. Before Toiano, she lived in Renacchi.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> Were they the Benvenuti in Renacchi? [I\u2019d just finished reading Giuliano Bandecchi\u2019s book about Toiano (Toiano: Tra Storia e Mistero<\/i>, published October 2024) <\/i>and in it, he includes the witness testimony of Elvira\u2019s sister Silvana (p.126) saying that the Benvenuti in Renacchi had comforted her mother on the day of Elvira\u2019s murder.]<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> My grandfather was a Benvenuti \u2014 he married my great-grandmother\u2019s daughter. My grandmother told me she knew Elvira. My grandmother was a little older than Elvira, but they were, let\u2019s say, around the same age.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> Does the story still weigh heavily on the village? Rosita: Yes, yes.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> In what sense?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> Many people come because of the story. And at the time Elvira\u2019s death caused a scandal. Today you see there are so many similar stories, but\u2026<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> It still has power over the area.<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> Yes, yes. Because it was a small town, and everyone knew each other. Becky: Do you think Toiano\u2019s fate is linked in some sense with Elvira\u2019s death?<\/p>\n Rosita;<\/strong> No, I think this was a tragedy that would have happened anyway, but maybe without her murder, there wouldn\u2019t be as much interest in the place today. People look for Elvira here in the cemetery.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> But she\u2019s not here.<\/p>\n Rosita.<\/strong> Right. But people think she is. They come here with those ghost sensors. Becky: Do you ever feel lonely here?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> No. If I ever want a little chaos, then I go to Livorno, Pisa. I always travel for work, too.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> You studied art conservation in Florence, yes?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> Yes, I studied art with Cassina furniture design and then I did fine arts in Florence, with a focus on decoration.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> How did you decide to come back to live here?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> I like it here. It\u2019s peaceful. I can work outside doing furniture design. And painting. [She points to the roses she\u2019s painted on her walls, climbing over and around her window frames.] If I were to leave here, I would find another, equally lost place. I can\u2019t stay in the centers. I work in the centers of the most beautiful cities. But that\u2019s enough for me. I need to see the greenery.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> And when people left this village, where did they move to?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> At first Pontedera, to the big factories. Yes, some to make Vespas. But then people also scattered. To Massafra. To Genoa.<\/p>\n The houses that are still standing now are the private ones that were passed down within families. The gentleman next door lives in Florence, but the house was his mother\u2019s.<\/p>\n Now, unfortunately, everything has been put up for sale here. I was the only one who didn\u2019t want to sell.<\/p>\n Becky<\/strong>: Why?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> In part because I like it here. It has sentimental value for me. But also because I feel somewhat obligated. If they were to come and make a resort out of this town I wouldn\u2019t like it anymore.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> Who tried to buy it from you? [Note: The Palaia tourist board insists that Toiano is not for sale.]<\/p>\n Rosita<\/strong>: There\u2019s a company, but who\u2019s behind it, <\/i>no one knows. I know it\u2019s an English company. If they\u2019re successful, maybe we\u2019ll find out later, but for now they won\u2019t say who it is other than that there\u2019s a company that\u2019s interested. All I know it was put up for sale by an agency in Florence. [She shows me the listing: 5.9 million euros. It says 5,500 square meters. 100 bedrooms. 100 bathrooms. She says it had been listed at 6.5 before] But then after you pay that, you have to pay about 40 million to fix it, so we\u2019ll see if the company has the ability to make an investment of that kind.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> And they want\u2026<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> The whole countryside. All of it. Becky: To change it into something touristy?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> Yes, something like that. Everyone else wanted to sell. I was the only one who didn\u2019t. One gentleman here is very old and his son never comes. And the guy from Como who owns 70% has wanted to sell for a long time. For years. So I was the only one. I was almost forced to.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> Forced in what sense?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> Forced in the sense of if I were to stay and it were turned into a resort, I wouldn\u2019t like that<\/p>\n \u2014 first of all. And then, forced in the sense of, if everyone wants to sell and I\u2019m the only one refusing\u2026 If I don\u2019t sell, then no one else can sell\u2026. At least we can hope that if they renovate the village, they\u2019d maintain the structure of the town.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> And also that they\u2019d feel the responsibility to maintain the spirit of the place.<\/p>\n Rosita<\/strong>: Yes, if it becomes too modern, it ruins the essence of the place. And of it being Tuscan in general. If they don\u2019t maintain that, I\u2019d be sorry.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> How would you describe what makes something essentially Tuscan?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> The Tuscan spirit? The structure of the houses is rustic. If you put marble in it from Mexico, it\u2019s no longer Tuscan. The houses usually have an exposed face. At Villa Saletta, I\u2019m not sure if you\u2019ve seen it, they\u2019re renovating it, but they\u2019ve kept a lot of the traditional exteriors.<\/p>\n [We hear some noises from outside. Tourists, walking down the road. She looks out her window and says hello.]<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> Here in Toiano, you see everything. It attracts strange people. Look, I found this video. [She pulls it up on her phone.] I didn\u2019t know what they were doing. It looked like a cult. They were all women with black and red on and then they walked around in a circle in the wood that I had cut for the fireplace.<\/p>\n I\u2019ve seen naked people taking pictures. People dressed as zombies. As dinosaurs, everything. Becky: I\u2019m also interested in the people who visit Toiano. They seem to be looking for something.<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> I regret that in all these years I haven\u2019t taken photos of all the visitors. I have some, but I would have liked to make a book of photographs of all of them. Of the special tourists who visit Toiano. It would be so interesting.<\/p>\n [She smokes a cigarette out the window.]<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> Do you find that living in a ghost town changes your sense of time?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> I don\u2019t. Well, I don\u2019t like watches in general. In fact, I don\u2019t have any clocks in the house. I don\u2019t like time that much. I think what it changes more is organization. There\u2019s no aqueduct here. I have a cistern, and there\u2019s a well down here where I get the water. But I don\u2019t cook with that water, so I always have to get a bottle of water either from the source in Palaia or from the source in Forcoli, so that takes organization. But it\u2019s not tiring to do, because it becomes a habit, right? You just have to bring the bottles with you to fill them up when you pass by.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> But you have electricity?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> Yes, yes, but we\u2019ve never had water. My dad went to the municipality 40 years ago for the aqueduct, and \u2026 nothing. Even with Villa Lena a few years ago, they held meetings, etc etc. But the municipality never interested my father that much. A little because they\u2019re deaf to the concerns of Toiano and because Palaia is not a rich municipality. But if they had put in an aqueduct 40 years ago, Toiano would not be like this. Because even if a private individual had wanted to buy a house here, they\u2019d learn there\u2019s no aqueduct and they\u2019d get scared and not buy it. Without water, you can\u2019t even make cement. So if we had had an aqueduct, many people would have bought houses here \u2014 foreigners, Italians. There was a man from Marche who had wanted the house, but not without the aqueduct.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> Are you happy that there is no aqueduct to avoid this?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> No, I would have been happier if Toiano had been bought by many private individuals, and it had become a small town with a bar, a restaurant. I was happier with the company. Because without it, maybe the village will close, and it all will disappear. I think this future is possible.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> Do you think it\u2019s too late now?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> Yes. It would require an investment of so many millions of euros.<\/p>\n They did work here six years ago to stop the hill from coming down in a landslide, which cost something like a million euros. Before those hydrogeological works, they couldn\u2019t even issue building permits. Now, at least with the works, they can.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> But isn\u2019t Toiano protected by the FAI?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> Yes, but here money is also important. They [the \u2018company\u2019] also wanted to know who owns the church, because they would like to buy the church, and they want to know who owns the land around it, because they\u2019d like that too.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> And what\u2019s the story of the Christmas ornaments?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> Yes, okay, that\u2019s a bit of a load of crap, in quotes. Basically there had been a girl who had been renting here, who is from Palaia, and she had created this initiative \u201cPortiamo<\/i> <\/i>una<\/i> <\/i>pallina<\/i> <\/i>a Toiano<\/i>.\u201d And then she wrote about it in Tirreno, which is a local newspaper. So for the first few years, Toiano was full of people bringing these ornaments. But if we don\u2019t take them down, the wind carries them all around. Last year, I wrote on Facebook asking that instead of bringing an ornament, could people bring a little cat box, because there\u2019s a cat colony here and each box costs less than the ornament they would have otherwise brought. It was a much better Christmas, because if I don\u2019t take off the ornaments, then they stay here or the wind carries them and they break and pollute. I have already removed so many.<\/p>\n There have been so many initiatives for Toiano over time: town hall meetings, first with our parents, then me. Meetings with the mayor, with Villa Lena for the aqueduct. Nothing has ever been resolved.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> Has the man who lives in Como and owns 70% of it here ever lived in Toiano?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> No, because first it was owned by his father, and he passed it on to his children. They never come to the meetings. They\u2019ve renovated that beautiful house there at the top of the bridge \u2014 the one on the right. They fixed it all, and they did it right, I saw the inside. But they\u2019ve never even stayed ten days in it. Every now and then they come to clean, but otherwise they\u2019re never there at all.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> Are you afraid of what will happen to the village after you?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> I would be sorry if it closes, or if I can\u2019t come anymore, even as a visitor. But would I be willing to pay a thousand euros a night to come back to sleep? No, no, that\u2019s for sure.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> Do you have a favorite place in the village?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> The bridge. I spend many hours there, even at night. It\u2019s meditative. Becky: What do you like about the bridge?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> The 360-degree view. It\u2019s true that here in the area there are many beautiful panoramas, but you don\u2019t get it like this where it\u2019s all around. Even if you go to Volterra, you can see one side but not the other.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> And I heard that the bridge used to be a drawbridge?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> Yes, long before the war. If you look at the broken medieval wall on the right, you can see where it connected.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> Are you ever afraid of Toiano?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> No. I walk through the woods even at night here. Becky: What is it like at night?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> Peaceful. I know a lot of people are scared, but I think it\u2019s more dangerous to live in a big city. What\u2019s there to be scared of here? You might come across an animal. You might be unlucky enough to find a bad guy \u2014 but you can find that anywhere. And ghosts, which everyone asks me about, I\u2019ve never seen.<\/p>\n Becky:<\/strong> Do you believe<\/i> <\/i>in ghosts?<\/p>\n Rosita:<\/strong> I believe in something greater than ourselves, but, honestly, if I saw a ghost I\u2019d be happy. Because that\u2019d mean tomorrow we\u2019d be here, too.<\/p>\n [When we finish talking, she walks me out of her house, back through the dark hallway, where my eyes haven\u2019t adjusted so I can\u2019t see anything. She escorts me to the foot of the village, pointing out where the barber had been, and the dance club, and she helps keep the dogs away. \u201cEven I don\u2019t like the white one,\u201d she says. \u201cIt\u2019s strange.\u201d She lets me snap a picture of her, and the small dogs look on at their queen, who is tethered here by nostalgia, beauty, and obligation. In the photo, Rosita smiles broadly, her hands at her waist, and she wears a black sweatshirt on a warm spring day, that says: Fly away.<\/i>\u201d]<\/p>\n Becky Cooper Villa Lena, 2025, Session 1 April 2025 Rosita, Oral History interview re: Toiano on April 25, 2025 I…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":33296,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[10],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-33288","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-creative-life"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.villa-lena.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/IMG_0117-4-262x300.jpg\")
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