Interview with Kristopher Edelen | Chef in Residence 2018

Q: Kris, what brought you to Villa Lena?

A: I was doing some looking into residencies in the U.S. to start I have always wanted to work on a farm and be able to cook with the ingredients in a locavore kind of way. I was accepted into one residency in upstate New York but as I came to think I continued to do more research on chef-in-residency programs around the world. As I surfed the web Villa Lena show up in my search, I did what anyone would do and I clicked the link: it was “Amore a prima vista”! I was captured immediately I just knew I had to continue to read what this 19th-century Italian villa located in Palaia, Italy was about. Through this research, I put in some work (literally)  and actually got in contact with the owner Lena Evstafieva we had a Skype interview and next thing you know I was set for 2018 Aug-October chef-in-residence. The ortos, the pigs, the agriculture, the ethos, land, community, farmers, butchers, hunters, cuisine, artist are what all brought me to the Villa.

 

Q: How was your typical day at the Villa like?

A: My day to day at the Villa was so beautiful it was like imagery from ‘Call me by your name’. I woke up to the Tuscan sun peeking through the stain glassed windows on the tower room I was staying in… I called it the Penthouse of the tower… because it was. I would shower in my very deluxe Italian bathroom. Then I headed out to go to the villa orto where the view was always beautiful and the produce growing was thriving. I would pick all of my vegetables I would need for my stock and either item for me in the garden or pasta workshop which I did twice a week and my favourite chef-in-residence dinners where me and my sous chef (culinary intern ) Valentina created epic menus and always uplifted the traditional Tuscan style of cuisine. Then with the artist who was chosen to come to visit each month, they had workshops, studio visits, and performances which I would attend.  There were sometimes weddings I crashed w/ the artist after having the chance to craft the menu for them which was soooooo much fun. The typical day was never the same from morning to evening but I did have a regiment to check on the gardens, check in with the agriculture team who I loved they are all absolutely amazing and keep the everything at Villa Lena exquisite. Doing some morning and afternoon foraging, man, I was in heaven with the wild ingredients, checking on the pigs from day to day and having a conversation with them and just living my best life while being one with nature. Made friends with the talented artist, musicians, writers, photographers, ceramist, cooks, farmers and just so many great amazing individuals this was the highlight of my days.

 

Q: Villa Lena runs weekly cooking classes – what kind of workshops did you run during your residency and did you enjoy doing them?

A: Loved my workshops and everyone I met through them. I hosted a pasta workshop like an Italian Nonna. Like my classes we were making ravioli, agnolotti, tortellini, fettuccine, tagliatelle, farfalle, orecchiette, fusilli and so much more. We would have a toast with a great Villa Lena sparkling and go right into throwing flour in the air. We would then direct the guest to sit down for a demo of cooking the pasta with the salad. My first class I kind of wanted to show off a bit haha and be ambitious so I made this raviolis w/ local ricotta and parmesan and then tossed them into some of the tomatoes grown on the property with Villa Lena olive oil, chillies and lemons coming from the orto. I also made a foraged green salad with everything edible I could find and it was drizzled with a wildflower vinaigrette, I foraged for wildflowers every day.

My into the garden and forage workshop was fun to I felt like I was able to teach and also learn something myself in the ortos on the property and my good friend Paul the farmer who would be in the garden around 5 am daily watering the plants, planting new plants, and keep the orto precise. We would stay in the garden for quite a while haha before cooking the guest loved trying the vegetables fresh from the garden and the kids loved to pick everything haha. I would make all kinds of dishes in the class from salads to soups to risotto and even some pasta dishes.

Q: Let’s talk about truffle; did you go truffle hunting on the estate? And did you have the chance to cook with it?

A: Every day I was truffling! The truffle hunting was such an experience with my friend Paolo and his dog’s man he has them trained well and he even told how he found a giant tartufo bianco. I was amazed and the truffles we found on the hunts I would use in my pasta making workshops. The flavour was out of this world right out of Italian soil on the villa property it was like the land of gold accept for truffle. I took advantage of these activities and hanging with these agriculture guys they taught me a lot about the Italian landscape.

Q: Your favourite residency dinner menu?

A: My favourite dinner I did at Villa Lena was pretty much all of them because each dinner was slightly different especially with being as local and sustainable with ingredients as possible so I choose three dishes that I made I like the most; Caramelized onion and fennel zuppa I served with a caramel onion + fennel purée and deep rich earthy onion consommé, crunchy onion and fennel crispy. The agriculture team hunted this fresh I was there !!! haha Grilled Wild Venison smoked with Rosemary bush ( the villa had tons and they were HUGE!) Foraged sunchoke puree, Sunchoke chips, Cannellini beans, and green tomato. Then I crafted this really moist, rich and delicious Olive oil cake using the first harvest olive oil in the batter …Omgoodness this was life! Served with grilled wild peaches, sorrel granita, Honey almonds and crema and a little drip drip of the olive oil. Bellissimo!

 

Q: We know you went hunting during your residency. Did you like it? What kind of animals did you hunt for?

A: I loved hunting with Pietro and his buddy, another old school Italian hunter. I was so ecstatic I was making this hunting passion come true in Tuscany like how many people can say they went hunting for wild boar and deer in Italy. The boar hunts were fun we went deep into the wood to a hideout to capture the boar mid daylight on a timed schedule for feed. Once captured we went back out sundown to get the capture. This was very wild and native to see haha. This is the only reason why we should be eating me is if we can hunt our own and I did absolutely that. The meat was heavingly juicy, juicier and divine.

 

Q: In October you assisted to the olive harvest, and you had the chance to taste fresh Villa Lena olive oil. Tell us a bit about it, and how to use it…

A: The olive trees are everywhere on the property and it’s a sight to see. The harvest of the oil was fun to set down the netting and shake and use a tool to rattle the ripened olives off. Olives fresh off the tree don’t taste so good but when pressed the oil was like nothing I ever had and the way to sip it down so that it aerated inside of your mouth and reach or nasal glands it opened my palate the flavour was spicy and green. I tried to use this oil whenever I could in my sauces, dressing, pasta, truffle oil, and cakes

 

Q: Foraging is an important aspect of your cuisine. I guess at Villa Lena you were doing it on a daily basis…

A: Allday Everyday …Mushrooms, Wild Fennel, Wild Oregano, Wild figs, Wild lemons everything oh and grapes Sangiovese from the harvest!

 

Q: Did the residency affect your inspiration?  

A: The residency inspired me to write, sing, create art, create wonderful food, to learn and pretty much do everything I love and set out to do them. I left the villa so inspired and have so many new things in the works because of that. I wish I would have documented the 3 months better but living in the moment was soooo much more rewarding than having millions of post to post on Social

 

Q: Is there any one moment of the residency which summed it all up?

A: The night of Ferragosto, we feasted and danced all-night this is the night where I felt this moment is and was where I was supposed to be my hard work is coming into fruition and being at the villa showed me this.

 

Q: What’s next for Kristopher Edelen?

A: So many blessings and manifestations happening you’ll just have to stay tuned ha-ha and maybe a surprise visit at the Villa!

Margherita Cake with Vernaccia Sabayon

Amaze your friends with this sweet recipe from former chef-in-residence Aaron Tomczak. This cake is the ultimate dessert for al-fresco dinners with your loved ones.
Villa Lena to me is simplicity, made extraordinary through natural beauty augmented by creativity. To draw a parallel to food for me would be ripe strawberries and Margherita cake, topped with a sabayon made from local wine and garnished with herbs from the garden. Very simple ingredients, made memorable by the airy texture of the sabayon and floral aroma of nasturtium and lavender.
The sabayon itself is simple, made only of three ingredients; egg yolks, sugar, and wine.
Only through proper technique and care does it become distinctive.
Margherita Cake
3 large free range eggs
Pinch of sea salt
75 g sugar
1 lemon zest
75 g melted  butter
300 g flour, sifted
1 tsp baking powder
Preheat oven to 180°C.
Beat the eggs whites until stiff with a pinch of sea salt and set aside. Beat the egg yolks with sugar until creamy and light. Add the lemon zest and melted butter. Add the flour sifted with baking powder and mix quickly. Stir in the egg whites, stirring from the bottom up. Pour the batter into a baking pan covered with parchment paper. Bake for 30 minutes.
Egg Sabayon
2 Egg yolks
66 grams sugar
118 ml white wine such as Vernaccia
To make sabayon you will need a pot 1/3 filled with barely simmering water. Above that you will need a metal bowl big enough to sit on top without touching the water.
Place egg yolks, sugar and white wine into the cold bowl, and begin whisking above the pot of water as the mixture begins to heat up.
As the eggs start to cook and thicken, the wine will begin to steam the mixture causing aeration.
Whisk for 4-5 minutes until the mixture has tripled in volume and resembles the texture of whipped cream.
Serve atop fruit and cake warm or cold and top with fresh herbs such as lavender and nasturtium.

Strawberry Tree Syrup by Natalie Zervou

Discovering the Arbutus Unedo plant (or strawberry tree as it is affectionately known) growing abundantly at Villa Lena was a revelation!

This small tree belongs  to the Ericaceae family, native to the Mediterranean region. The species name, ‘unedo’, is said to mean “I only eat one” in Latin as they are said to leave a slightly bitter aftertaste. I did not find this to be the case, though the texture for me was somewhat challenging (think flouring apple!) however,  when transformed into shrubs, syrups and jams this fruit really is utterly delightful. The flavour is layered, complex and sweet and when married with thymus mint, also bountiful at the villa, the heavenly aroma and sticky sweet taste kept us going back for more. In folk medicine, the plant has been used for antiseptic, astringent, intoxicant, rheumatism, and tonic purposes.                                          I enjoyed the shub best, the acidity of the vinegar gave a tangy twist and had that addictive quality that contrasting flavours often possess (think salty and sweet).

For the children at the Villa, the Arbutus unedo plants were magic (imagine a whole strawberry tree!!!!).                                                                                                              

For one of the workshops we made edible ‘magic potions’ using the plant and other herbs as our base; they certainly enjoyed the holistic, sensory experience of experimenting with edible delights.

 
The below syrup recipe adds complexity to cocktails and salads.
Or if you are like me, devour it on a teaspoon as it is, or add it to porridge.
 
Quantity wise you will need a 1:1:1 ratio of fruit, sugar, and vinegar.
 

  1. Clean fruit well
  2. Add equal parts of sugar and water to a saucepan, and heat and stir until the sugar dissolves.
  3. Add Arbutus Unedo fruit and simmer until the fruit’s juice blends well into the syrup.
  4. Add the thymos mint or any other herb you wish- this will infuse fairly quickly and the perfume aroma is wonderfully intense
  5. Let the mixture cool. Strain out the solids using a cheesecloth.
  6. Add vinegar to the syrup and let it cool.
  7. Bottle it all up in sterilized bottles or jars, and store in the fridge for 2-4 days before using.            

 

                                                                                                 The sugar and vinegar work to preserve the shrub and just like jam, they keep for ages!

 
 

 

MUSEEUM LOVES VILLA LENA | Pick up their new travel guide for Tuscany

Bored of flipping through Tuscany tourist guides? Overwhelmed by the endless options? Pick up the brand new Museeum guide of Tuscany! In this short guide based on the senses you can find information for anyone.

In this guide you will find the top suggestions for an exploration of the main cities around Villa Lena: Florence, San Gimignano, Lucca, Siena!

From a connoisseur to food lovers, there are amazing tips for restaurants. Dine with a beautiful view at the café in Museo degli Innocenti, or try Italian comfort food with a twist at Michelin star gourmet restaurant ”L’imbuto” (The Funnel) in Lucca Centre of Contemporary Art. This is a great place for a change from traditional Italian cuisine and for a break from medieval art.

Breathe in fresh, calming Tuscan air in Florence while exploring the beautiful Gardens of Boboli, or get lost in a painting at the Uffizi Gallery.

Discover the top museums such as Palazzo Pitti, or get scared at the the Lucca Torture Museum, which is definitely not for the fainthearted.

In San Gimignano, this high tech Renaissance fairy-tale city will have you under its spell. Pinacoteca and its 3D audio-video guide will help you listen to the voices of the proto-renaissance geniuses in an incredible immersive experience for those looking to further their knowledge.

Take part in the ancient sewing workshop at Palazzo Mansi in Lucca, and create rustic Luccan textiles using only ancient tools and fine materials such as cashmere and Silk. Spend the afternoon walking on top of the medieval walls that still surround the city on a beautiful pedestrian promenade (Passeggiata Delle Mura) and see the entire city.

And what if you have children? See how our bodies work with wax human figures at the Museum of Natural History of Florence or play with the working models of Da Vinci’s inventions and show your child one of the great minds of the world at the Vinci Museum in Vinci!

The terms that will help you navigate and make the most of one of the most beautiful regions of Italy are SEE beautiful architecture, LISTEN to fun and educational events, BREATHE in breathtaking parks, TASTE delicious food, TOUCH local finds and shops, and family friendly activities with KIDS.

We invite you to immerse yourself in Museeum’s full cycle experience of Tuscany. Awaken your senses and start your journey with us at Villa Lena.

See the full version of the guide at www.museeum.com Interested in a tailored guide just for you? Email : info@museeum.com

Photos: Louise Palmberg

RECIPE | TRUFFLE PASTA

Now that the evenings are getting colder, we have the perfect excuse for comfort food…Warm up with this rich truffle pasta from Rebecca Eichenbaum, our Villa Lena. resident chef this Autumn.

 

 

Ingredients

fresh pappardelle
55g olive oil
2g white truffles, shaved
70ml heavy cream
parmigiano reggiano, freshly grated
black pepper, freshly cracked

In a large stock pot, bring water to a boil and add 2 tablespoons of salt. Add the pasta to the boiling water just when you’ve finished the sauce. It will only take 1-2 minutes to cook.

For the sauce, heat olive oil and cream in a large sauté pan over medium-low heat for about 3-5 minutes, stirring constantly, until it begins to reduce and thicken. Add in the truffles and cook for 2 minutes more. If it gets too thick, add some water from the pasta water pot to thin it out.

Add the cooked pasta to the sauce and toss to coat. Crack black pepper and grate the parmesan cheese over the pasta. Serve hot with a drizzle of very good olive oil.

 

 

Introducing…  Rebecca Eichenbaum

Rebecca’s passion for food was found rather accidently while pursuing a fashion design degree. While studying at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, Eichenbaum studied here in Italy in Milan for a year, an influential time when she fully realized her love for cooking. After finishing her degree she followed her hunger to learn more about food, teaching herself from cookbooks and working in different kitchens around the world. Her diverse background and creative expression makes us very excited to have her here at Villa Lena.

 

Sweet dreams are made of cheese | Butternutten AG

17 August 2017

Villa Lena, Tuscany

Stimulated by a common passion for food and cooking, Butternutten’s Luki + Oli hosted a four-course cheese dinner at Villa Lena.

Every course featured ceramics made in Butternutten workshop by hotel guests, staff people and artists in residence at Villa Lena; the ceramics are inspired by human body parts.

The individual and unusual tableware invited the guests to interact as well as to enter in dialogue with each other. The “cheese dreams” dinner is a way of questioning what eating can be more than food intake and how our being can be shaped.

At a time when food in general is becoming a minor matter due to busy days, Butternutten is concerned with the necessity and requirements of dishes, glasses and cutlery, equally with edible content, and further with the subject of hospitality.

The cheese menu included baked ricotta and blue cheese with fresh herbs, sun-dried tomatoes, rucola and nuts as starter, fresh hand-cut pappardelle, burnt radicchio e gorgonzola as primo and torta di formaggio with cacio e pepe crisp for dessert. The last course was a piece of Roquefort served in an envelope together with a sheet of paper. According to a new study by the British Cheese Board, different cheeses can give you different types of dreams. That’s why the guests were invited to write down their cheese dreams to their sheets, which were collected by Luki + Oli the next day.

The dinner was prepared in close collaboration with Villa Lena’s kitchen chefs; a publication including some of the dreams will be released soon.

Elderflower

by Alexis Delaney, chef-in-resident of the years past

The first year that I came to Villa Lena, I was picked up at the train station in Pontedera. After a brief stop at the local coop supermarket to pick up a few spring-in-Tuscany essentials (raw fava beans, pecorino, bread and salami) our tiny car made its way along the curving and bumpy road between Palaia and the villa. Despite my jetlag and lack of sleep that previous night, I was struck by not only the incredible views and terrifying blind turns, but also that the road was lined with elderflower trees and they were in full bloom.

I couldn’t wait to get back on that road, this time on foot to collect the crowns of fragrant and tiny blossoms, which bloom prolifically between April and June. I headed out with my husband and visiting photographer Ellie Tsatsou to collect the clusters and transform them into a delicious and unique elixir for our aperitivo the next evening. We snipped a basket full of the branches and made sure to keep them upright lest any of the magical pollen and flavor fall to the road.

Once back in the kitchen, I trimmed the heads of their leaves and stems, which lack the same delightful aroma, and made a light simple syrup with sugar, water and a bit of lemon peel. After the syrup had cooled a bit, the washed flowers went in, and stayed there for 24 hours for the flavor to steep. The next day, I strained my concoction and made my self an elderflower lemonade with some lemon juice, the syrup and sparkling water of ice. Then that evening, we substituted the sparkling water for prosecco and enjoyed our drinks by the pool at sunset!

I brought some of the non-alcoholic version down to Anna, who works in the Villa Lena office, the next day. She informed me of an ancient Italian recipe in which the blossoms are dipped in batter, fried and sprinkled with sugar. Known as fiori di sambuco fritti in Italian they are a delicious and unique dessert, especially when served with a bowl of sweetened and whipped ricotta.

Elderflower syrup

This syrup will store for months. Dilute it with soda water or prosecco for a refreshing spring drink. For an inventive take on a French 75 cocktail, add a shot of gin or cognac ½ a shot of the syrup, top with prosecco and garnish with a strip of lemon zest.

500 grams sugar

1 liter water

1 lemon, zested with a vegetable peeler

15 elderflower crown

In a saucepan, heat the sugar, the water and the lemon zest until the sugar has completely dissolved. Remove from the heat and allow to cool until warm to the touch. Add the elderflower blossoms. Once the mixture is at room temperature cover and leave for 24 hours. The next day, strain through cheese cloth. Pack into sterilized containers and refrigerate.

Elderflower Fritters

These fritters use a basic tempura batter with prosecco instead of soda water to add flavor and color. Make sure the prosecco is cold for a light and crispy batter.

75 grams flour

75 grams corn starch

325 ml cold prosecco

2 dozen bite-sized clusters of elderflowers

1 cup granulated sugar

1 lemon, finely zested

flavorless oil for frying

Mix the sugar and lemon zest until well combined.

Gently wash blossoms in a bowl of water and remove to a towel to dry. Fill a pot with vegetable oil no higher than halfway, or you run the risk of boiling over. Heat the oil until a deep fry thermometer reads 350 degrees F or 180 degrees C. Prepare batter by whisking both flours and prosecco until just barely combined. Do not over mix. Working in batches of four or five, dip blossoms in batter until evenly coated and lay them in the oil. Avoid over crowding the pan. After a minute, flip the blossoms once with a slotted spoon, fry another minute, and remove to a paper towel. They should take no more than 2-3 minutes, and should be a golden brown.

Toss while still hot in the lemon sugar and serve immediately with honey whipped ricotta.

ELDERFLOWER_syrup

Honey whipped ricotta

1 cup ricotta

1 tablespoon mild flavored honey, or to taste

Small pinch of salt if necessary

Combine all ingredients in a bowl and beat until smooth and light, about 2 minutes.

Wild asparagus

villa-lena, tuscany, italy, countryside, garden, vegetable-garden, kitchen-garden, organic, vegetable, vegetables, wild-asparagus, asparagus,

by Alexis Delaney, chef-in-resident of the years past

Last year on a cool, cloudy evening in late March, I set out towards Toiano Vecchio to stretch my legs and watch the sun set over the craggy Tuscan hills. As I approached the abandoned town, a kilometer from the Villa, I saw a guy along the hillside, next to the tiny, ancient cemetery, bending down in the grass. When he came up, he had fistfuls of wild asparagus.

Italians really are an incredibly generous and kind people. I chatted with him for a while, and before I knew it half of his vegetal bounty was in my hands, as well as information on where to search for wild asparagus. Of course, no Italian conversation about food would be complete without strong opinions about how to prepare the tender and flavorful stalks.

The man recommended looking along slopes as the plant likes well-drained soil. He also suggested looking in the shade of olive trees. Once I had identified the “mamma”, a silvery-green, feathery and spiny plant. I began seeing them everywhere on the Villa Lena estate.

As the week went on I also saw families strolling on the road to Villa Lena, scanning the sides for culinary treasure, and then bounding up and snapping off the elusive spears. As with any foraging it is important to not take everything so that the plant can continue to thrive and produce in years to come.

I’m not sure which is better: romping around woods and olive groves hunting for this fleeting, seasonal treat, or bringing them to the kitchen and preparing a delicious meal. Wild asparagus are more flavorful than their conventional cousins, and are best featured in simple pastas, risottos, frittatas or crostini, where they can be the star of the show. I love smearing some garlic-rubbed bread with fresh ricotta and topping it with quickly blanched asparagus tips, lots of freshly ground black pepper and a good drizzle of spicy Villa Lena olive oil. It is equally delicious with lemon and parmesan in this risotto, which always makes an appearance in the Villa Lena restaurant.

Wild aspargus Villa Lena tuscany

Wild Asparagus Risotto

Serves 4

Risotto is a comforting one pot dinner. Originally from Northern Italy, it can serve as a base for any number of vegetables and flavorings. The best known rice for risotto is Arborio, but Carnaroli, Vialone Nano and Baldo are other options.

400 grams wild asparagus, trimmed and cut into ¼ inch pieces
1 lemon, zested and juiced
3 tablespoons butter
1 small onion, diced
300 grams risotto rice
1.5 liters chicken or vegetable stock
250 ml white wine
40 gras grated parmesan cheese

In a saucepan bring the stock to a boil and set aside, in close range of where you will be cooking the risotto. In a large, heavy bottomed pot melt 2 tablespoons of butter and add the diced onion with a pinch of salt. Cook on low until onion is completely translucent. Add the rice and coat with the onion and butter. Cook stirring frequently until rice is translucent. Add the lemon zest to the rice and cook for 30 seconds. Then add the white wine and turn up the heat to medium. Cook stirring often until all the white wine is absorbed.

Add 1 cup of stock and a pinch of salt and cook until absorbed. Continue this process, stirring occasionally to make sure rice doesn’t stick. After ten minutes add the asparagus. Continue cooking the rice with stock until the rice is tender but still has a “bite”. You will have to stir more frequently towards the end to prevent sticking. When the rice is done, turn off the heat, add the lemon juice, a tablespoon of butter and the cheese. Stir vigorously to develop the creamyness. Taste for salt and add a splash more broth if needed. Serve on warm plates.

Our food philosophy

villa-lena, tuscany, italy, countryside, chef, chef-in-residence, vegetables, fresh, organic

In the words of Virginia Woolf, “One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well.” We at Villa Lena seek to bring holistic health to our restaurants tables.

Despite the many diet fads circulating one commonality exists that is proven to be beneficial to health. Minimally processed foods, predominately plants are decisively associated with physical well being and lower risks of disease.

Villa Lena is inspired by Tuscany’s own tradition in which whole grains, beans, olive oil, nuts, and fruits and vegetables are at the heart of a rich peasant food tradition.

We make food that comes direct from nature, whether its our own gardens, our wine and olive oil, or the many neighboring farms in the area. We try to move away from farmed meat and use game meat where possible. We emphasize seasonality so that we are cooking with and eating ingredients at their peak of flavor and nutrition.

Health is not the only objective at the heart of our food ethos – sustainability is another. By pairing the tastiest produce available at that moment with care, creativity, and technical proficiency, we attempt to build a model for a responsible and delicious future, where product is not wasted and enjoyed at its seasonal time.

We offer a set menu which changes daily, which we serve sometimes “family style” on top of our long, shared tables, with a hope that good food and good conversations will bring some memorable dinners.

Chef kitchen Villa Lena

Villa Lena organic Butternut garden

Villa Lena soup organic garden

CHOCOLATE WORKSHOP

Chocolate Villa Lena kids Tuscany, workshop,

May 2016

Drawing inspiration from the edible herbs and flowers that can be found around the Villa Lena grounds, chef in residence Jill Donenfeld and designer Emma Montague led a children’s workshop that paired chocolate with everything from rosemary to lavender.  First finding the flavours on a foraging walk through the grounds and later combining these with sticky bowls of melted dark chocolate.

The children’s activities were run as part of the artist residency program set up on the grounds, and were perfect for families to enjoy. The foraging and cooking experience were part of the slow food, organic ethos of Villa Lena in the context of imaginative and creative play.

Chocolate Workshop Villa Lena Tuscany